Put family first at Letamo Lodge, a luxury kid-friendly safari in the Waterberg

“A game farm?” asks our intrigued pre-teen, posture correcting ever-so-slightly as his gaze stays locked on the Xbox abyss. In that moment, I realise he might be imagining a world of infinite screens, controllers and consoles, pixelated landscapes filled with skinned characters, all unfolding in all-encompassing 8K.

But, as he side-eyes me with a wry smile, it becomes apparent that I’m the one being played. Lucian’s all for the wildlife, and is genuinely excited to be joining my lovely wife and me for our upcoming weekend at Letamo Lodge, the luxurious, family-focused camp in the middle of Qwabi Private Game Reserve. It’s game on.

A week later, we’re off. I dodge the driving bullet and opt for the transfer, enjoying a rare chance to gaze at the fleeting countryside as it blurs from concrete-grey interchanges to a languid lane lined with angular scrub. As we turn off to Bela-Bela, wife’s playlist kicks in, landing on Kenny Hawkes and Louise Carver’s seminal early dance anthem, Play the Game. We both smile at this instant in-joke, then turn to see if Lucian gets it too. But he’s under headphones, head down, near-focused on his own game. We need an open horizon.

We need the Waterberg. Having visited on numerous occasions, it unfolds before us with mysterious familiarity. An area that exudes enigmatic energy, it’s unlikely, untameable and ancient. The mountains, the iron in the rocks, the thorny bush, abundant rivers and sandstone formations all put you in your place. They’ve been there for eternity, and will endure – mostly unchanged – long after our mortal coils shuffle off and dissipate to dust.

Kinda heavy, I know, but as we coast into Qwabi, these deeper thoughts dissolve, first by genuinely warm welcomes, and then by refreshingly hot towels. The atmosphere is immediately homey, easy-going and intimate. I’m that guy who can never remember a name, so I’m astonished that everyone knows ours, and greets us as if we are returning guests. Just past reception is one of my all-time favourite architectural features, an enticingly simple shapeshifter: the sunken lounge. We sink in, and enjoy a very welcoming hand massage. Inhale. Exhale. Relax.

Next up: our room. No, wait: our rooms. Wife and I in one, Lucian in his own. As we’re shown around, a genuinely ecstatic, uncontrollable smile spreads across his face. Large bed. Veranda. Big screen TV. All to himself. And a minibar too, stocked with fizzy drinks and juices, also all his. It’s unbelievable. Hardened Joburgers, we’re a little anxious for our boy to be out of sight, but the greatest danger is that he learns to operate the Nespresso, and we’re forced to scrape him off the ceiling.

Our room is a mirror image, but we’re more impressed by the complimentary slippers and gowns, high thread counts, functional plug points and natural aesthetics. The whole lodge has an open, earthy organic feel. Roofs are pitched high, the palette is all muted stone with pops of colour, and there’s a nod to mid-century minimalism throughout. It’s very calming. The mandatory cicadas chirp out a familiar ambience, setting the scene for gentler animals to wander through. A warthog grazes on high heels before darting off with a snuffle. Buck flow in and out of the surrounding brush. Monkeys eye us from their elevated canopies, willing us to drop our guard. A chameleon materialises on a sun-facing trunk. Then disappears.

While weekends in the bush conjure up ideals of free-flowing free time, they do come with one very enjoyable obligation: game drives. Letamo has a range of rangers who guide guests on private tours. The three of us are with Sthembiso Sibanyoni, a keen-eyed, soft-talking man with the uncanny ability to foretell – and sometimes shape – the future. Over the course of our drives, he makes his intent clear upfront. “Let’s go find a cheetah,” he suggests or “Shall we see some elephants?” These grand promises become even grander given the elusive nature of said beasts, and the unpredictability of our wild surrounds.

But, without missing a beat, he makes good on every one of his pledges and we get up close, first with a cheetah enjoying a late afternoon meal, and then with a herd of pachyderms that barge across a dirt road at dawn. Their trunks, poised like cobras, announce their invincibility, before these grey giants disappear into the thicket, eluding all other vehicles.

Over the course of the weekend, Sibanyoni guides us to lion prides and symbiotic herds. We see rhinos with calves, hippos, buffalo and one of the small five: the leopard tortoise. It’s energising, informative and inclusive. He lures Lucian in with an activity book for him to mark off his sightings and learn more about the importance of conservation. Letamo views the bush as a classroom, an opportunity to instil a sense of responsibility in young minds, and create a real connection to nature. Before we know it, Lucian is upfront with Sibanyoni, scanning our surroundings with his far superior vision. It makes getting up at 5.30am worth it.

Inclusivity is a key focus for Letamo. The lodge is designed around family needs, an oasis for parents with children of all ages. There’s a kids area kitted out with a popcorn machine, splash pool, playground, Padel court and even a PS5 (which, thankfully, looks rarely used). Young ones can enjoy activities like arts and crafts under the mindful eye of kind minders, who are also on hand to babysit. Sure, these weekends should be about family time, but it’s good to know that if you want to go for a couple’s massage at the serenely secluded spa, or enjoy yourself at the magnificent infinity pool, or just unwind with an unhurried dinner – minus offspring – then you can. And on the subject of dining: be prepared to surrender fully to another one of Letamo’s enticers. Food. Glorious food.

Every time we sit down – within aromatic distance of the five-star buffet – we hatch the same plan: we’ll eat our hearts out, then (in the interests of maintaining some semblance of shape) we’ll skip the next meal. And every time we fail. We are shamelessly / shamefully unable to make like Sibanyoni and make good on our promises. There are too many temptations, from artichoke tempura, rosemary parmesan shortbread, beef bobotie quiche and Tunisian tuna salad to fire-charred kudu loin, crispy fried aubergine chips, minted watermelon and feta salad, pawpaw cheesecake, coconut rice pudding and moist Dutch apple cake. We eat it all. And more.

Carley Davis, Letamo’s executive sous chef, fills me in on their food ethos. With an incredible team of 15 chefs, she’s set up to cater to large groups, but is adamant that they maintain a determined dedication to detail and nuance. She gets it right. Nothing we eat feels mass-produced or rushed. Everything is freshly prepared, the menu changes all the time and if, for some reason, nothing amidst this expansive cornucopia of delights whets your appetite, then the kitchen will bend over backwards to make you something that does.

So, sure we’re 4kg heavier when we leave Letamo on Sunday afternoon. But it’s not just our stomachs that are full. Those proverbial cups are too. The goodbyes are as heartfelt and genuine as the hellos. We are bidding farewell to friends. Sibanyoni and Lucian hug it out, and in that moment I feel there’s a fresh presence in his life. A new appreciation. It’s real and raw, immediate and instinctive. This trip will hopefully linger on as a core memory, something that he returns to throughout life, either in person, or in an imagination now fuelled by a palpable respect for nature and all its wild and varied characters. Letamo has been a game-changer.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

WHERE IT IS: In the Qwabi Private Game Reserve in Limpopo’s Waterberg region. It’s about 60km from Bela‑Bela and 207km from Johannesburg — a three-hour drive.

WHAT IS HAS: Kids’ club, playground, Padel court and dedicated children’s activities. Twice-daily game drives with experienced rangers, spa, infinity pool, restaurant and full-service hospitality.

ACCOMMODATION: 58 rooms in four categories, from deluxe rooms to luxury suites with private plunge pools. Rooms sleep two adults, with interleading units available for families.

SA RESIDENTS SPECIAL: The new “Pack the Whole Pride” campaign invites local families to enjoy a Big Five safari from R9,330 per room per night (full board). Children under 12 stay free, ages 13–16 pay half price. Valid until January 31 2026. For bookings and more rates and specials, see newmarkhotels.com or e-mail reservations@newmarkhotels.com.